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Rabbitary

Rabbits are small mammals belonging to the family Leporidae. The domesticated rabbit with scientific name Oryctolagus cuniculus is commonly reared for their meat, fur, and as pets. The male rabbit called doe and the female buck are highly prolific. The female can give birth to between four to twelve kitten at ones. And within a year, they can reproduce four to six times per year. Rabbit farming, also known as cuniculture, is the practice of raising rabbits for meat, fur, and other products. It requires the knowledge of  proper housing, feeding, and breeding of rabbits, their health, and welfare.
In Nigeria, rabbit production has not yet widespread compared to other livestock. Few of the country populace engage in rabbit production.
Rabbits are more efficient feed to meat converters (FAO) compared to other livestock. They feed on kitchen waste, weeds, fruits and compounded feeds.  In many African countries, people use them as pets and children are delighted when handling them.

ADVANTAGES OF RABBIT REARING
Rabbit farming is a profitable business with a high rate of return on investment, low capital investment, little management and minimal operational cost.
1. Rabbit farming requires low startup costs compared to other livestock farming.
2. HIGH REPRODUCTIVE RATE: Rabbits have a high reproductive rate, with a gestation period of 28-31 days and the ability to produce multiple litters per year. This makes it a more profitable option for farmers.
3. LOW FEED COSTS: Rabbits are herbivores and can feed on a variety of plant-based diets and kitchen waste alone. This brings about a reduction in their feed costs for farmers.
3. HIGH-QUALITY MEAT: Rabbit meat is a lean meat and good source of protein. It is low in fat and cholesterol.
4. SOURCE OF OTHER PRODUCTS: Rabbit breds for fur production include Rex, Chinchilla, Angora, and Satin. These breeds have soft and luxurious wool. The fur can be used to make clothing and accessories.
5. EASY TO HANDLE: Rabbits are small, docile and produce beautiful bunnies which are easy to handle. They enjoy being held and petted and often seek human attention. These give the reasons why people use them as pets and young children take delight about them.
6. FAST GROWTH RATE: Rabbits have a fast growth rate, reaching market weight within 2-4 months, which makes them a more profitable livestock option for farmers. Rabbit breeds like New Zealand White, Californian, and Flemish Giant have a high food-to-meat convertion rate, fast growth rate, large size, and high meat-to-bone ratio.
7. LOW SPACE REQUIREMENTS: Rabbit farming requires less space than other livestock farming. They only require a hutch to house them.
8. SOURCE OF FERTILIZER: Rabbit waste is rich in nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, essential for plant growth. Rabbit urine has being discovered to be a biopesticide in farms, especially organic farming.

BENEFITS OF RABBITS TO HUMAN
1. Rabbits produces lean, white meat which is a source of protein, low in calories and the meat is low in fat and cholesterol making it an excellent choice for those who want to maintain a healthy diet. New Zealand White, Californian, flemish giant are popular choice for meat production. Rabbit meat is used in soups, stews, barbeques, sausages, or as roast meat.
2. HIGH NUTRIENT CONTENT: Rabbit meat  is rich in protein which is essential for building and repairing muscles, tissues, and organs. It is also rich in Vitamins especially vitamin B12, B3, and B6, which help maintain healthy skin, nerves, and red blood cells. It is also a good source of Minerals such as phosphorus, iron, and potassium, which are essential for strong bones and teeth.
3. LOW IN CHOLESTEROL: Rabbit meat is low in fat and cholesterol, making it a great alternative to other meats.
4. BOOSTS IMMUNE SYSTEM: Rabbit meat contains selenium, which is important for a healthy immune system.
5. SUPPORTS BRAIN FUNCTION: The high levels of vitamin B12 found in rabbit meat support brain function and cognitive health.
6. PROMOTES HEART HEALTH: The potassium found in rabbit meat helps regulate blood pressure and promotes heart health.
7. HELPS WITH WEIGHT LOSS: The low-fat and high-protein content of rabbit meat make it an excellent choice for weight loss.
8. REDUCES INFLAMMATION: Rabbit meat contains omega-3 fatty acids, which have anti-inflammatory properties and can reduce inflammation in the body.

BREEDS OF RABBITS
Breeds of rabbits and their unique characteristics and uses.

Fig 2: BREEDS OF RABBITS

a) New Zealand White. They are usually white with pink eyes. They have muscular bodies, short ears, and glossy fur coats. The breed is known for its large size and rapid growth rate, which makes it an ideal choice for meat production.
b). Californian. This breed has a white body with black ears, noses, and feet. They have a friendly and curious personality making them great pets. They are a popular meat breed due to their fast growth rate and large size.
c). Flemish Giant. The Flemish Giant is one of the largest rabbit breeds, with some weighing up to 9 kilograms. They have broad heads, long ears, and a dense fur coat that can be black, blue, or white. Flemish Giants are good for meat production.
d). Netherland Dwarf. The rabbit breed is one of the smallest, with a maximum weight of one kilogram. They have round bodies, short ears, and dense fur coats that can be white, black, blue, or chocolate. Netherland Dwarfs are popular as pets due to their cute appearance and friendly personalities.
e). Angora. The Angora rabbit has long soft wool usually harvested by shearing or plucking. There are different types of Angora rabbits, including English, French, and Giant, and they can come in a range of colors, including white, black, blue, or chocolate. They require extra care due to their fur.
f). Rex. The Rex rabbit breed is known for its soft, velvety fur, which can be black, blue, chocolate, or red, with short, upright ears. They are popular for commercial fur production and kept as pets due to their unique appearance and friendly nature.
G). Dutch. The Dutch rabbits have a distinctive appearance with a white body and black, blue, or brown markings on their face, ears, and tail. They are a medium-sized breed with a compact body and upright ears.
h). Mini Lop. The Mini Lop rabbit breed is a smaller version of the Lop breed, with floppy ears and a compact, muscular body. They have a range of colors, including black, blue, chocolate, and white. Mini Lops are popular as pets due to their affectionate and playful nature.
I). Lionhead. The breed has a distinctive mane of fur around its head, which resembles that of a lion. They have a compact body, short ears, and a soft, dense fur coat that can be black, blue, chocolate, or white. Lionheads have an average live weight of 1.4-1.8 kilograms and are popular as pets due to their unique appearance and playful personalities.
J). Chinchilla. They are small and furry, known for their soft, dense fur and lively personalities, making them popular as pets. Chinchilla fur is highly prized for its softness and durability.

MANAGEMENT PRACTICES IN RABBIT PRODUCTION

1. HOUSE : The cage where rabbits are raised is called a hutch. Each hutch cell is called a hole. The hutches are designed in different sizes. The hutch must be adequate to accommodate their feeders and drinkers and must be clean, well-ventilated, and dry. The environment must be protected from extreme temperatures. The cage must be spacious enough for the rabbit to move freely and have a separate area for females and males. Cleaning helps to minimize odours, reduce the risk of disease, and provide a valuable source of organic fertilizer.
In constructing the hutch, materials that may corrode or rust easily should be avoided. The floor should be made of galvanised wire mesh that will allow waste to fall through to a collection system below. The waste collection system should have proper drainage to prevent the buildup of droppings and urine and allow them to drain into a separate container.

Fig 3: DIFFERENT TYPES OF HUTCHES
2. FEEDERS AND DRINKERS : The feeders used to feed the rabbits and the drinkers must be made from concreted materials or aluminium. This is because rabbits can feed on plastic  or wooden materials especially when hungry.
3. FEEDING
Rabbits require a nutritious and balanced diet to boost their health and productivity rate. They feed on supplementary feeds, commercial pre-balanced pellet rations, hay, fresh vegetables, grasses, kitchen wastes and plant leaves. They should be provided with sufficient clean and fresh water. Plant based food should be rinced in water before feed to rabbits so as to remove contaminants like soil and dangerous insects that can lead to their death when consumed. The commercial feeds produced in powdery form can cause respiratory disorder, therefore small quantity of water can be sprinkled on it and mixed together before feeding. When raising rabbits for wool production, feeding them hay may contaminate the wool and lower its quality. The feeding cost for commercial rabbit farming is low.

RABBIT FOOD

Rabbits and their bunnies can safely eat a wide variety of fresh vegetables, herbs, and fruits to keep them strong and healthy. Some of the food stuffs include:

i. MAIN DIET: Rabbits and their bunnies after weaning should be fed with hay first. Such hay could be;
Timothy hay, Meadow hay, or Orchard grass. This should make up 80–90% of a rabbit’s daily food. This helps with digestion and keeps their teeth healthy.

ii. VEGETABLES (FEED DAILY OR OFTEN)
Vegetables are rich in fiber, minerals and vitamins and low in sugar. Examples of such vegetables include:
Romaine lettuce (not iceberg), Kale (in moderation), spinach (small amounts), carrot tops, cilantro, parsley, basil, mint, mndive, arugula, dandelion greens, broccoli leaves and stems (not florets), celery leaves, zucchini.

iii. FRUITS: Fruits should be fed to rabbits and their bunnies occasionally as treats. Fruits are sweet and contain minerals and vitamines and should be given in small amounts: Apples (no seeds), banana slices, blueberries, strawberries, pineapple chunks, melon,
papaya, peach (no pit)

iv. HERBS: These include: Thyme, oregano, rosemary, lemon balm, chamomile can also be fed to rabbits.
v. WEEDS AND FORAGES:
Weeds and forages are powerhouse of nutrition and has health benefits for rabbits. Many common weeds are packed with essential vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that can support rabbit’s immune system, aid digestion, and promote overall well-being. These wild greens offer a natural and varied diet that can help prevent boredom and encourage healthy eating habits. Some varieties of weeds and forages fed to rabbits include; tridax, milk weed, goatweed, edible lawn grasses, clover, chickweed (Stellaria media) , purslane, common mallow, chicory, stinging nettle, yarrow etc.

If rabbits are allowed to forage, farmers should make sure the foraging weeds are not contaminated from treatments like fertilizers or herbicides. Orelse, they might end up loosing their rabbits.

SOME FOODS TO AVOID WHEN FEEDING RABBITS
Never feed rabbits with food stuffs like; Iceberg lettuce (too watery, low nutrients), potatoes, onions, garlic, avocado, chocolate, bread or grains, beans, corn and sugary or processed foods as this may affect them negatively.

WATER
Water is very essential for rabbits to drink so as to aid food digestion and keep the body cool during hot conditions. Always provide fresh, clean water daily. Dehydration can lead to serious health problems.

In the case of new food or feeds, introduce them slowly and in small amounts. Watch for soft stool or signs of discomfort. If that happens, stop and try something else after a few days.

OVERFEEDING RABBITS WITH GREENS

Greens are important for rabbits. They provide vitamins (A, B, C, D, E,and K), minerals (calcium, potassium, folate, manganese, omega 3’s and iron), and hydration. They are also rich in antioxidants, some with mild anti-inflammatory effects, sufficient fiber to prevent gastrointestinal stasis. isoflavones and diuretic properties etc.
They help to keep the eyes healthy, the immune system strong, bones strong, the heart healthy and improve digestion etc.
However, when greens are fed in excess, especially fresh and wet greens, they can cause serious digestive upsets. Apart from this, feeding too many greens can lead to:
i. DIARRHEA : due to too much moisture and low fiber content.
ii. BLOATING (gas buildup) : The greens can ferment in the gut, thus, resullting in gas build up in the belly.
iii. NUTRIENT IMBALANCE: Rabbits need more dry fiber (hay, pellets) than watery greens.
iv. SPOILAGE RISK : Leftover greens quickly rot and attract flies, leading to contamination.
v. LOSS OF APPETTITE: Rabbits may refuse dry feed after too many soft greens.

SAFE GREEN FEEDING HABITS
i. Feed greens moderately about 20–30% of the total diet.
ii. Always wilt greens for 2–4 hours before feeding.
iii. Combine greens with dry feeds (pellets, hay, or dried forage).
iv. Avoid sudden diet changes or feeding greens with pesticide residues.
v. Remove uneaten greens within 2–3 hours to prevent spoilage.

SOME MISTAKES FARMERS MAKE WHEN FEEDING RABBITS

Feeding rabbits may look simple, but getting it wrong can affect their health fast. Here are common mistakes to avoid:

1. TOO MUCH OF PELLET : Rabbits like pellets, but they need more hay to keep digestion healthy.

2. FEEDING SPOILT FOOD: Rotten or moldy feed can cause illness. Farmers shoulf always check on the feed and plants before giving to eat.

3. NO MINERAL OR SALT LICKS : Rabbits also need minerals to stay strong. They need salt lick in their hutch. It is a big lie when people say rabbit must not taste salt.
For complete commercial diet, they are compounded to contains the necessary salt and minerals. They can also be provided as supplementary source of minerals especially in natural or pellet-free diet. Thus, making pellet-free or natural diets rich in trace nutrients like sodium, calcium, and other minerals that might be lacking in a diet of just hay and greens.
It may offer enrichment and help with dental wear.

4. DIRTY OR NO WATER : Clean, fresh water is a must every day. It helps them eat, stay cool, aid digestion and stay alive.

5. CHANGING FEED SUDDENLY : Changing of rabbit feed do have severe effect on their system. The effect can also be fatal.
In their gut (cecum) are delicate bacteria that must be balanced to digest high-fiber foods. An abruption change of food can disrupt this microbial ecosystem, leading to serious health problems and digestive disorders, such as
gastrointestinal (GI) stasis ( that is, when the gut slows down or stops moving entirely), diarrhea,
bloating ( gas accumulation in the gut), loss of appetite,
nutritional imbalance ans a
behavioral change due to discomfort.

6. POOR FEED STORAGE: If feed is damp or open, it goes bad. Store in dry, sealed containers.

7. RELIANCE ON KITCHEN WASTE : Scraps are not enough. Rabbits need a full, balanced diet.

8. SINGLE DIET FOR ALL STAGES OF THE RABBIT: Babies, mothers, and adult bucks have different feeding needs, without which their growth is impaired.

9. NOT CHECKING WEIGHT AND HEALTH : There is need for regular checking of the rabbit weight. Guess work is not allowed as this may affect production and sales. Also, their body condition should be checked regularly.

RABBIT FOOD

Rabbits and their bunnies can safely eat a wide variety of fresh vegetables, herbs, and fruits to keep them strong and healthy. Some of the food stuffs include:

i. MAIN DIET: Rabbits and their bunnies after weaning should be fed with hay first. Such hay could be;
Timothy hay, Meadow hay, or Orchard grass. This should make up 80–90% of a rabbit’s daily food. This helps with digestion and keeps their teeth healthy.

ii. VEGETABLES (FEED DAILY OR OFTEN)
Vegetables are rich in fiber, minerals and vitamins and low in sugar. Examples of such vegetables include:
Romaine lettuce (not iceberg), Kale (in moderation), spinach (small amounts), carrot tops,
cilantro, parsley, basil, mint, mndive, arugula, dandelion greens, broccoli leaves and stems (not florets), celery leaves, zucchini.

iii. FRUITS: Fruits should be fed to rabbits and their bunnies occasionally as treats. Fruits are sweet and contain minerals and vitamines and should be given in small amounts: Apples (no seeds), banana slices, blueberries, strawberries, pineapple chunks, melon,
papaya, peach (no pit)

iv. HERBS: These include: Thyme, oregano, rosemary, lemon balm, chamomile can also be fed to rabbits.
v. WEEDS AND FORAGES:
Weeds and forages are powerhouse of nutrition and has health benefits for rabbits. Many common weeds are packed with essential vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that can support rabbit’s immune system, aid digestion, and promote overall well-being. These wild greens offer a natural and varied diet that can help prevent boredom and encourage healthy eating habits. Some varieties of weeds and forages fed to rabbits include; tridax, milk weed, goatweed, edible lawn grasses, clover, chickweed (Stellaria media) , purslane, common mallow, chicory, stinging nettle, yarrow etc.

If rabbits are allowed to forage, farmers should make sure the foraging weeds are not contaminated from treatments like fertilizers or herbicides. Orelse, they might end up loosing their rabbits.

SOME FOODS TO AVOID WHEN FEEDING RABBITS
Never feed rabbits with food stuffs like; Iceberg lettuce (too watery, low nutrients), potatoes, onions, garlic, avocado, chocolate, bread or grains, beans, corn and sugary or processed foods as this may affect them negatively.

WATER
Water is very essential for rabbits to drink so as to aid food digestion and keep the body cool during hot conditions. Always provide fresh, clean water daily. Dehydration can lead to serious health problems.

In the case of new food or feeds, introduce them slowly and in small amounts. Watch for soft stool or signs of discomfort. If that happens, stop and try something else after a few days.

OVERFEEDING RABBITS WITH GREENS

Greens are important for rabbits. They provide vitamins (A, B, C, D, E,and K), minerals (calcium, potassium, folate, manganese, omega 3’s and iron), and hydration. They are also rich in antioxidants, some with mild anti-inflammatory effects, sufficient fiber to prevent gastrointestinal stasis. isoflavones and diuretic properties etc.
They help to keep the eyes healthy, the immune system strong, bones strong, the heart healthy and improve digestion etc.
However, when greens are fed in excess, especially fresh and wet greens, they can cause serious digestive upsets. Apart from this, feeding too many greens can lead to:
i. DIARRHEA : due to too much moisture and low fiber content.
ii. BLOATING (gas buildup) : The greens can ferment in the gut, thus, resullting in gas build up in the belly.
iii. NUTRIENT IMBALANCE: Rabbits need more dry fiber (hay, pellets) than watery greens.
iv. SPOILAGE RISK : Leftover greens quickly rot and attract flies, leading to contamination.
v. LOSS OF APPETTITE: Rabbits may refuse dry feed after too many soft greens.

SAFE GREEN FEEDING HABITS
i. Feed greens moderately about 20–30% of the total diet.
ii. Always wilt greens for 2–4 hours before feeding.
iii. Combine greens with dry feeds (pellets, hay, or dried forage).
iv. Avoid sudden diet changes or feeding greens with pesticide residues.
v. Remove uneaten greens within 2–3 hours to prevent spoilage.

SOME MISTAKES FARMERS MAKE WHEN FEEDING RABBITS

Feeding rabbits may look simple, but getting it wrong can affect their health fast. Here are common mistakes to avoid:

1. TOO MUCH OF PELLET : Rabbits like pellets, but they need more hay to keep digestion healthy.

2. FEEDING SPOILT FOOD: Rotten or moldy feed can cause illness. Farmers shoulf always check on the feed and plants before giving to eat.

3. NO MINERAL OR SALT LICKS : Rabbits also need minerals to stay strong. They need salt lick in their hutch. It is a big lie when people say rabbit must not taste salt.
For complete commercial diet, they are compounded to contains the necessary salt and minerals. They can also be provided as supplementary source of minerals especially in natural or pellet-free diet. Thus, making pellet-free or natural diets rich in trace nutrients like sodium, calcium, and other minerals that might be lacking in a diet of just hay and greens.
It may offer enrichment and help with dental wear.

4. DIRTY OR NO WATER : Clean, fresh water is a must every day. It helps them eat, stay cool, aid digestion and stay alive.

5. CHANGING FEED SUDDENLY : Changing of rabbit feed do have severe effect on their system. The effect can also be fatal. In their gut (cecum) are delicate bacteria that must be balanced to digest high-fiber foods. An abruption change of food can disrupt this microbial ecosystem, leading to serious health problems and digestive disorders, such as
gastrointestinal (GI) stasis ( that is, when the gut slows down or stops moving entirely), diarrhea,
bloating ( gas accumulation in the gut), loss of appetite,
nutritional imbalance ans a behavioral change due to discomfort.

6. POOR FEED STORAGE: If feed is damp or open, it goes bad. Store in dry, sealed containers.

7. RELIANCE ON KITCHEN WASTE : Scraps are not enough. Rabbits need a full, balanced diet.

8. SINGLE DIET FOR ALL STAGES OF THE RABBIT: Babies, mothers, and adult bucks have different feeding needs, without which their growth is impaired.

9. NOT CHECKING WEIGHT AND HEALTH : There is need for regular checking of the rabbit weight. Guess work is not allowed as this may affect production and sales. Also, their body condition should be checked regularly.

10. NO FEEDING RECORDS: For the rabbitary to be successful, there is need for recorde keeping . Without tracking what the animal feeds on, knowledge and information on what is best for the rabbit may be challenginh or wasting of feed may occur. Feed right = healthy rabbits + better growth and profit.

WILTING LEAVES BEFORE FEEDING THEM TO RABBITS

Freshly cut grasses and forages often contain high moisture, plant sap, and natural gases that can ferment rapidly in a rabbit’s sensitive digestive system. Rabbits have a delicate gut balance that depends on fiber and controlled bacterial activity. Feeding overly fresh greens can upset this balance.
Therefore, the fresh leaves can be wilted for a period between 3–6 hours (or until semi-dry).
Examples of highly nutritious greens include: Tridax, Pawpaw, Guinea grass, or Sweet potato vines etc. They should be wilted before feeding especially during the rainy season when moisture levels are high.

Wilting = Safer digestion + Better nutrient absorption + Healthier rabbits

IMPORTANCE OF WILTING
i. Excess water to evaporate reduces risk of bloating and diarrhea.
ii. Plant toxins and gases to dissipate some safe plants still produce mild irritants that break down after wilting.
iii. Better digestion wilted leaves pass through the gut smoothly, preventing fermentation.
iv. Less mold risk reduces chances of feeding wet or decomposing leaves that can cause enteritis.

Wilting of the cut grasses and forages can be achieved through a practice called “AIR WILTING”. The leaves are spread thinly under a shaded, airy space for a period of between 3–6 hours depending on the leaf’s water content (thicker leaves like pawpaw may take longer). They should never be wilted under direct sun, which can destroy the nutrients in them. After spreading under the shad, they should not be stacked or bagged because this can cause spoilage and mold build up.
The leaves can then be fed as they are soft, pliable, and slightly dry and not brittle.

MOLDY FEEDS

Feeding rabbits moldy Feed is dangerous. They should be fed fresh, quality and balanced diet.
Some of the effects of feeding rancid or moldy feeds include:

1. FUNGAL TOXINS (MYCOTOXINS): These are poisonous substances from mold that attack the liver, kidneys, and digestive system.

2. LOSS OF APPETITE AND WEIGHT: Rabbits fed with rancid/moldy food may loss appetite and stop eating due to digestive tract disorder. They lose weight, and may appear weak or depressed.

3. DIGESTIVE UPSET: Moldy food may result in diarrhea, bloating, and soft stool when consumed.

4. REPRODUCTIVE PROBLEMS: In pregnanat and nursing doe, fertility may be reduced and milk production in nursing does may drop, as nutrients required for lactation in the diet are no longer available.

5. DEATH IN SEVERE CASES: When rabbits are fed with moldy food, this may have long-term effect on the rabbit. Thus, heavy exposure to moldy food is toxic and can be fatal, leading to death of the rabbit.

PREVENTIVE MEASURES
Several preventive measures can be embarked upon to keep the food and feeds fresh and not moldy. Some of these preventive measures include:
i. Store pellets and grains in a dry, cool, and airtight container.
ii. Never feed pellets that are clumped, damp, or have a musty smell.
iii. Keep hay and feed off the floor to avoid moisture contamination.
iv. Buy feed in small quantities enough for 2–4 weeks.
v. Clean feeders regularly to avoid mold buildup.

MANAGEMENT AND CARE IF FED WITH MOLDY FEED
i. Immediately, stop feeding the rabbits with the contaminated feed.
ii. Give clean water and fresh greens to help flush the system.
iii. Mix feed with a small amount of activated charcoal or natural toxin binders (consult a vet for dosage).
iv. Observe for symptoms like loss of appetite, diarrhea, or lethargy.
v. Consult a veterinarian for further care and possible liver-support treatment

FEEDING RECORDS: For the rabbitary to be successful, there is need for recorde keeping . Without tracking what the animal feeds on, knowledge and information on what is best for the rabbit may be challenginh or wasting of feed may occur. Feed right = healthy rabbits + better growth and profit.

WILTING LEAVES BEFORE FEEDING THEM TO RABBITS

Freshly cut grasses and forages often contain high moisture, plant sap, and natural gases that can ferment rapidly in a rabbit’s sensitive digestive system. Rabbits have a delicate gut balance that depends on fiber and controlled bacterial activity. Feeding overly fresh greens can upset this balance.
Therefore, the fresh leaves can be wilted for a period between 3–6 hours (or until semi-dry).
Examples of highly nutritious greens include: Tridax, Pawpaw, Guinea grass, or Sweet potato vines etc. They should be wilted before feeding especially during the rainy season when moisture levels are high.

Wilting = Safer digestion + Better nutrient absorption + Healthier rabbits

IMPORTANCE OF WILTING
i. Excess water to evaporate reduces risk of bloating and diarrhea.
ii. Plant toxins and gases to dissipate some safe plants still produce mild irritants that break down after wilting.
iii. Better digestion wilted leaves pass through the gut smoothly, preventing fermentation.
iv. Less mold risk reduces chances of feeding wet or decomposing leaves that can cause enteritis.

Wilting of the cut grasses and forages can be achieved through a practice called “AIR WILTING”. The leaves are spread thinly under a shaded, airy space for a period of between 3–6 hours depending on the leaf’s water content (thicker leaves like pawpaw may take longer). They should never be wilted under direct sun, which can destroy the nutrients in them. After spreading under the shad, they should not be stacked or bagged because this can cause spoilage and mold build up.
The leaves can then be fed as they are soft, pliable, and slightly dry and not brittle.

MOLDY FEEDS

Feeding rabbits moldy Feed is dangerous. They should be fed fresh, quality and balanced diet.
Some of the effects of feeding rancid or moldy feeds include:

1. FUNGAL TOXINS (MYCOTOXINS): These are poisonous substances from mold that attack the liver, kidneys, and digestive system.

2. LOSS OF APPETITE AND WEIGHT: Rabbits fed with rancid/moldy food may loss appetite and stop eating due to digestive tract disorder. They lose weight, and may appear weak or depressed.

3. DIGESTIVE UPSET: Moldy food may result in diarrhea, bloating, and soft stool when consumed.

4. REPRODUCTIVE PROBLEMS: In pregnanat and nursing doe, fertility may be reduced and milk production in nursing does may drop, as nutrients required for lactation in the diet are no longer available.

5. DEATH IN SEVERE CASES: When rabbits are fed with moldy food, this may have long-term effect on the rabbit. Thus, heavy exposure to moldy food is toxic and can be fatal, leading to death of the rabbit.

PREVENTIVE MEASURES
Several preventive measures can be embarked upon to keep the food and feeds fresh and not moldy. Some of these preventive measures include:
i. Store pellets and grains in a dry, cool, and airtight container.
ii. Never feed pellets that are clumped, damp, or have a musty smell.
iii. Keep hay and feed off the floor to avoid moisture contamination.
iv. Buy feed in small quantities enough for 2–4 weeks.
v. Clean feeders regularly to avoid mold buildup.

MANAGEMENT AND CARE IF FED WITH MOLDY FEED
i. Immediately, stop feeding the rabbits with the contaminated feed.
ii. Give clean water and fresh greens to help flush the system.
iii. Mix feed with a small amount of activated charcoal or natural toxin binders (consult a vet for dosage).
iv. Observe for symptoms like loss of appetite, diarrhea, or lethargy.
v. Consult a veterinarian for further care and possible liver-support treatment

4. RABBIT BREEDING/ REPRODUCTION
Farmers should  have a good understanding of the breeds before purchase. Rabbits are naturally prolific and multiply rapidly. The gestation period for female rabbits (doe) is 31 days and can giving birth (farrow) to 6 -10 kits (baby rabbits) at once. Rabbits are capable of reproducing seven times a year. They reach sexual maturity between 4 to 6 months.

5. CARE FOR KITS. : The young rabbits are called kitten, bunny or kit. Kits are the newly bunnies just given birth to. Kits need proper care to keep them alive. Nest boxes should be placed in the pregnant rabbits (doe) hutch before she farrows. Nest boxes are made of different material. It can be  wooden boxes made with plywood and some wire for the bottom or paper catons. Good clean boxes are important to keeping the kits healthy and the doe from getting an infection in her teats. After use, the nest should be cleaned with disinfectant and dried. It should be stored until It is needed again. After putting the box  in the cage, the doe’s fur or shredded paper or straw can be put into it in preparation for the delivery of the kits.

RABBIT URINE
Rabbit urine, a waste product from rabbit rearing is commonly used as a biopesticide against devastating crop pests and pathogens. Such pests include insect pests, especially caterpillars, aphids, moths, leaf miners, mites and whiteflies attacking crops such as vegetables, maize, watermelons, coffee, bananas and avocados, among others. Apart from being used as a biopesticide, rabbit urine is also an excellent organic fertilizer. It is used as a biofertilizer to improve the viability of seeds of crops such as cinnamon (Cinnamomum burmannii L.) and the growth and yield of pagoda (Brassica narinosa L.) and tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum Mill.).
It has also been used to improve soil fertility.
Apart from the above, rabbit urine can be cheaply sourced in sufficient volumes, it contains a high level of nitrates, phosphorus and potassium, which are needed by the plant to grow, and it is environmentally friendly and non-toxic.

DISADVANTAGES OF RABBIT URINE

The demerits of rabbit urine on a farm can be on the environment, plants and even animals. These disadvantages include its strong, unpleasant odour, which can attract pests like flies and ants. Improper use can lead to plant damage due to high nitrogen content, and the urine itself can create a slippery, dirty floor if not cleaned properly, potentially causing foot problems in rabbits. Additionally, a significant disadvantage is the build-up of ammonia gas from uncleaned urine in enclosed spaces, which poses a respiratory health risk to rabbits and other animals.

DISADVANTAGES FOR THE ANIMAL AND FARM ENVIRONMENT

i. STRONG SMELL:
Rabbit urine has a strong, unpleasant odour. If not cleaned often, it makes the hutch and surrounding area smell bad.

ii. ATTRACTS FLIES AND PESTS:
The urine has a pungent smell and can attract flies, ants, and other pests to the hutch and surrounding area if not cleaned regularly. When the urine stays too long, it attracts flies, ants, and other insects that can spread diseases.

iii. CAUSES AMMONIA BUILD-UP:
Too much urine in a poorly ventilated or an enclosed area releases ammonia gas, which can affect the rabbits’ breathing and cause respiratory problems.

iv. DIRTY AND SLIPPERY FLOOR:
Urine makes the cage floor wet and slippery, leading to dirty fur, sore hocks, and infections

v. POTENTIAL FOR DISEASE SPREAD: The presence of urine can lead to a breeding ground for bacteria and other microorganisms, increasing the risk of disease.

DISADVANTAGES FOR PLANT APPLICATION

vi. CAN BURN PLANTS IF USED RAW:
Though rabbit urine is rich in nutrients, using it directly ( raw) on plants without dilution can burn the leaves and soil.
A common recommendation is to dilute it with water ( for example, 1 liter of urine to 5 liters of water) before use as a foliar spray.

vii. INEFFECTIVE AS A PESTICIDE IN ALL CASES: While some studies show that rabbit urine can repel or kill certain pests, it may not be effective against all insects, like aphids, and can cause leaf scorching at high concentrations.

Note: Rabbit urine is useful when handled well, but if left uncleaned or used wrongly, it causes bad odour, sickness, and damage. The hutch should always be kept dry and the urine processed properly before use.

EFFECT OF EXTEME HEAT IN RABBIT REARING

Too much heat is dangerous for Rabbits. Rabbits do not sweat to cool their body temperature when high but they regulate heat through breathing and they also use their long ears.
This makes them highly sensitive to high temperatures, especially above 28°C (82°F).

EFFECT OF EXTREME HEAT ON RABBIT
i. HEAT STRESS : Extreme heat can cause heat stress in rabbits. This can be noticed as the animal begains to pant and also they become weak and not active.
ii. HEAT STOKE : Unlike human that possesses sweat glands underneath their skin, rabbits lack this gland. When there is extreme heat, rabbits cannot sweat to cool their body but rely on their long ears and panting to cool down. These mechanisms are insufficient when temperatures rise above their tolerance level (around 25°C or 77∘F ). But when a rabbit’s core body temperature becomes dangerously high or further increases, then this can lead to circulatory collapse, and eventually, death. 
iii. DEATH: Extreme heat can affect rabbits especially in young kits and pregnant/lactating does
iv. REDUCED FERTILITY: Extreme heat reduces fertility in both doe and buck through several interconnected physiological mechanisms in both of them. Such physiological mechanisms include: hormonal imbalance, oxidative stress, direct damage to reproductive cells and tissues, and reduced libido/feed intake. Rabbits are especially sensitive to heat stress because they have few functional sweat glands and thick fur, making heat dissipation difficult. 
v. LOW FEED INTAKE AND SLOW GROWTH :
Extreme heat results in low feed intake in rabbits. This is a behavioral and physiological mechanism that reduces internal body heat production and maintain a stable body temperature (thermoregulation).
These behavioral and physiological Mechanisms include: reduction in metabolic heat production, hypothalamic appetite suppression, limited heat dissipation ability, and
gastrointestinal function changes etc.
Others include:
vi. Dehydration
vii. Poor milk production in nursing does
viii. Bucks may temporarily become sterile if exposed to very high heat for days.

SIGNS OF HEAT STRESS IN RABBIT
The following are signs of heat stress in rabbits. Farmers should watch out for this signs, so as to take necessay precautions :
i. Fast breathing or panting
ii. Hot ears
iii. Lying stretched out with mouth open
iv. Weakness or wobbling
v. Wet nose (saliva)
vi. Refusing feed
vii. Slow movement or collapsing
.

PREVENTIVE MEASURES FOR HEAT STRESS IN RABBITS
i. PROVIDE CONSTANT SHADE: Never allow sunlight to hit the cage directly. Roofing sheets plus ceiling, or palm fronds, or shade net (Green net) should be used for the roof construction.These materials keep the inner house cool and habitable for the animal.

ii. ENSURE STRONG VENTILATION: The rabbit housing and hutches should be well ventilated. This will allow ease of air flow. Therefore, farmers shoulf avoid blockage of airflow around the cages. In addition , the cages should be well spaced apart.

iii. PROVIDE UNLIMITED FRESH DRINKING WATER: Water is essential in rabbit rearing. The water aid digestion and assist in cooling their body. They may get additional water apart from drinking water from fruits and some leaves they consume.
During extreme heat, enough drinking water must be placed in their drinkers every time of the day. Ice cubes can also be added to the drinking water. Also, farmers should ensure that their drinkers are always kept clean when fresh waters are pured in their drinkers.

iv. USE COOLING AIDS: A lot of farmers do avoid or are novies of this cooling technique. But this can assist in saving the life of their rabbit.
A frozen water bottle can be placed in their cage. Farmers can also place a cooling stone or tile in their hutch for them to lie on, instead of direct contact with the flooring.
Wet sacks can also be hung around (not dripping) their hutch to creat a cool and humid envoironment around the hutches.

v. HOUSE RABBITS IN RAISED CAGES: Ground heat is one of the ways that increase the body temperature of the rabbit. Therefore, the hutches should be raised well above the ground for air flow beneath the hutches.
In addition to this, farmers should avoid congestion in the rabbitry.

vi. FEED DURING COOLER PERIODS:
Feeding rabbits during cooler periods, such as early morning and evening, prevents heat stress by aligning feed digestion with the natural drop in ambient temperature. The metabolic process of digestion produces internal body heat (thermic effect of food); timing this process to cooler hours helps the rabbit maintain a stable and safe body temperature.
Also, feeding rabbits at the cooler hours of the day also coincide with the rabbits crepuscular behaviour (that is, they are most active at twilight) and naturally prefer to eat more during the evening and early morning hours. This promote better overall health and a more stable body temperature rhythm etc.

Pests and Disease Control and Management in Rabitts
Rabbits are susceptible to several pests and diseases which affect their health and productivity.  Some common pests and diseases of rabbits include:

PESTS

1. Fleas and mites. These parasitic insects cause irritation, hair loss, and skin infections in rabbits.

Prevention :Regular sanitation of hutch and it’s environment can help prevent infestations.

2. RATS: When there is an opening wide enough for rats to pass through in the hutch especially where the kits are cared for, the rats can gain entry into thecell and feed on the kits.

Prevention and control: Regular sanitation of hutch surrounding, setting of traps, use poisonous rat baits etc

3. SNAKES: Snakes like rats can also feed on the bunnies if they have assess into the cell. They can also kill adult rabbits. Prevention: Regular sanitation of hutch surroundings. Use of poisonous baits.

DISEASES

1. Coccidiosis. The disease is caused by protozoan organisms that infect the rabbit’s intestines. Symptoms include diarrhea, weight loss, and dehydration. Prevention :by keeping the hutch and it’s environment clean and providing clean drinking water.
2. Pasteurellosis. This bacterial infection causes respiratory problems, fever, and abscesses in rabbits. It is transmitted through direct contact with infected rabbits or contaminated food or water.
Prevention : provide rabbits with a clean living environment and observe good hygiene practices.
3. Myxomatosis. This is a viral disease spread by fleas and mosquitoes. It causes swelling and discharge around the eyes, mouth, and ears and can be fatal.
Prevention : Vaccination is the most effective way to prevent myxomatosis.
4. Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease (RHD): RHD is a highly contagious viral disease that causes sudden death in rabbits. It spreads through contact with infected rabbits or contaminated objects. Prevention : Vaccination
5. Flystrike. The condition occurs when flies lay eggs on the rabbit’s skin, and the larvae feed on the rabbit’s flesh. It can lead to infection, pain, and even death.
Prevention : Clean and disinfect the environment and dry. regular checking for any signs of infestation.
Other routine practices to carry out in rabbitary include: Good hygiene and biosecurity practices, Record keeping, regular vaccination, regular health checks, good ventilation, and protection from the sun and rain.

6. Abscesses: An abscess is a pocket of fluid and pus caused by bacterial infection. Abscesses are relatively common in domestic rabbits and can be located anywhere on the rabbit’s body. Abscesses may be caused by a bite, cut or other wound or occur in the mouth as a result of dental disease. They may also be caused by a foreign body such as a grass seed or wood splinter becoming embedded in the rabbit’s skin or mouth.

Symptoms : Rabbit may not eat well, with droppings if affected on the mouth. If affected on the body, there will be a hard lump located somewhere on the rabbit’s skin.

Treatment: The abscesses first need to be drained of the pus and fluid inside them. Antibiotics can be administered to the rabbit, e.g ivermectin

7. Bloat: Bloat is a condition where the stomach becomes stretched by excessive gas content. The gas is caused by the bacteria in a rabbit’s stomach multiplying excessively as a result of incorrect feeding. This may be because the rabbit has eaten wet green food or grass clippings, mouldy hay or simply as a result of irregular feeding. Symptoms : hard, swollen ‘balloon like’ stomach, shortness of breath and restlessness.

Treatment: In the early stages of detecting bloating in rabbits, a therapeutic massage can be given to the animals, lightly stroking the tummy towards the tail. If the pet starts to scream in pain and tries to break free, then this procedure should be stopped immediately. Also, various medications used in human and veterinary medicine can be used.

8. Diarrhoea: Diarrhoea may be caused by other illness but can also be caused by incorrect diet, stress, cold and draughts. It is also a pointer that the Rabbit might have other diseases, with the result of diarrhoea, which might need strict attention.

Symptoms : liquid or very runny faeces, with wet, dirty bottom.

Treatment: Treatment of diarrhea in rabbits involves identifying and treating the cause. During this period, ensure fiber in the diet is increased (often nothing but hay may be offered within this period.) Also, introduction of Antibiotics to the affected rabbit such as ivermectin can be done. Immune Booster can also be administered to take care of healthy up keeping of rabbit and maintaining it’s immune system balance.

Other diseases that can infect rabbits include ear mites (canker), heat exhaustion (heat stroke) and dental disease (malocclusion) etc

Isolate any sick or injured rabbit, and disinfect both the isolation cage and the rabbit’s regular cage to avoid spread of disease and consult the veterinarian for regular check up .
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN RABBIT AND HARE (COUSINS WITH GREAT DIFFERENCES)

Rabbits and hares, both belong to the same animal family. They have evolved in remarkably different ways to suit their environments.When a glance is made between rabbits and hares, both look like mirror images. Both has similar features like; long ears, soft fur, and a taste for leafy greens etc. Despite their similarities, they belong to separate genera and cannot breed with one another. They have different lifestyle, looks, and behavior.

RABBITS

Rabbit is a social mammal often found in grassy meadows or underground in cozy, complex tunnels called warrens. Their body is round in shape and with slightly shorter ears. Their bunnys are born blind, hairless, and entirely dependent on their mothers. Rabbits love and enjoy living in groups. They possess a playful behaviour, thus, making them an endearable companion to both their own kind and to humans.

HARE

Hare, on the other hand, is a more solitary and athletic animal. It possesses legs and a pair of ear which are larger, leaner, and built for speed. These long legs and impressively large ears often end in black tips.

Unlike rabbits, which dig burrows, hares build nest above ground in shallow grassy forms. Their young are born with their eyes open and covered with fur, ready to hop within hours of birth. Hares are cautious by nature and use their strength and swiftness to escape predators in wide-open spaces.

Other differences include; Rabbits are team players that thrive in tight communities below ground, while hares are self-reliant sprinters made for the open wild. Rabbits has a fluffy fur, wide-eye with gentle, compact frame. While the hare has a sleek, towering fur, muscle-packed limbs and a piercing gaze.

All these, they use for survival and adaptability in their environment.